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Tijuana: assembly plant to zebra
Thursday, May 24, 1990
by Robert P. Laurence

    The zebra-painted donkey -- perhaps a great grandson of original? -- still poses for tourists snapshots on Avenida de la Revolucion, but not much else is the same in Tijuana.
    New people, new businesses, new politicians, and a new sensibility have all transformed the once-raucous border town into a bustling, ambitious big city -- the second biggest on the West Coast of North America. Some of the results are seen in "The New Tijuana," an illuminating one-hour special at 8 tonight on KPBS-TV, Channel 15.
    Produced by Paul Espinosa (who wrote the script with Frank Christopher) and financed by a $230,000 grant from the Corporation for Public Broadcasting, "The New Tijuana" offers little new for San Diegans who have been paying attention to recent developments. It does, however, wrap up those events in a coherent manner and place them in historical perspective.
    Most interesting of all, actually, are the historical photos and movie films Espinosa and his staff have dug up, beginning with a shot of a few wooden buildings clustered around a wide patch of dirt - Tijuana at the turn of the century.
    In clips from the 192Os, we see yanquis who headed south of the border to find booze during Prohibition. In the 193Os, the young Rita Hayworth dances in a show at the Agua Caliente race track's nightclub while movie stars William Powell and Carole Lombard lap up cocktails and Jean Harlow strides about the golf course.
    In the early 1940s, several American sailors are pictured with smiling young Mexican women, and narrator Luis Valdez says delicately that they are "seeking a temporary diversion from the rigors of military service."
A scene or two later, he speaks more frankly of Tijuana's "gaudy night clubs, live sex shows, drug dealers and prostitution."
    Always, it seems, Tijuana has specialized in providing Americans and other foreigners with what they could not, or dared not, buy at home. Its main commodity bas been the poverty of its people.
    In one fundamental way, that has not changed Much of Tijuana's new financial resurgence, has been accomplished with the help of maquiladoras assembly plants built by Japanese and American manufacturers taking advantage of the availability of cheap labor. Wages average about $1.25 an hour, according to the film.
    Espinosa in an interview admitted "that's sort of a liberal figure." At that, the Mexican workers are earning significantly more than they could in the villages where they once lived. So, their friends and families continue to migrate to Tijuana from the countryside.
    Cheap labor, Espinosa said, is "definitely the attraction of the maquiladoras. That's true of all the border, of the whole runaway shop syndrome, with American companies building assembly plants in Singapore and Hong Kong."
    Tijuana, he said, has the additional advantage of being next to the U.S. border, and close to American markets.
    "Historically, and still in the present," he said, "Tijuana has been providing for Americans on a certain level. There are more televisions assembled in Tijuana than any other place in the world.
    "And young Americans still go to drink there on the weekends. They are looking to get things they couldn't get in the United States. There are still some aspects of previous history, but it's not as sordid as in the 1920s and l930s."
    Espinosa's camera explores the new shopping centers, the factories where Tijuanans work, the new cities that have sprouted up on the outskirts of the city. He interviews editor Jesus Blancornelas of the rebel newspaper Zeta, who discusses the assassination of columnist Hector Felix, called "El Gato."
    As Espinosa's cameras show, many of the managers, boosters and beneficiaries of the maquiladoras are members of Tijuana's long-established aristocracy, such as Alejandro Bustamante and Monique Estudillo.
    Meanwhile, as he pointed out, most of the people who work at the Levimex plant (owned by an American maker of electrical equipment) "have no electricity in their homes."
    All in all, the viewer is left wondering how much life has changed for most residents of Tijuana, despite the glimmerings of new prosperity, the shiny face lift given Avenida de la Revolucion (Tijuana's main street) and the recent election of opposition politicians, such as Baja California Gov. Ernesto Ruffo, and Catalino Zavala, elected to the state Legislature.
    Asked whether the fortunes of Tijuana citizens have really improved, Espinosa answered cautiously, "In a word, I would say yes -- but with a lot of qualifiers. People feel that life in Tijuana is better than life was in the places they left. They're enthusiastic about the promise life holds for them.
    "They feel very optimistic about the prospects for getting ahead."
    Historically, he pointed out, "people have used Tijuana as a jumping-off place" on their way to the United States. Now they arrive with plans to stay.
    An American evaluating progress in Tijuana, he said, has "to take off the glasses you're used to looking through. San Diego is a relatively affluent community in general. You cross the border and you're in a different world.
    "There's no question there's a lot of poverty. But people who live in conditions we feel are primitive feel their lives are improving.
    "Tijuana is the recipient of an economic boom. The bottom line is that jobs go begging all the time. If you want to work in a maquliadora, you can work in a maquliadora. Every month, some new company is relocating."
    Between tourism and the maquiladoras, Tijuana is bringing in American currency to help Mexico pay off its foreign debt, Espinosa said. "Tijuana is in the forefront of change in Mexico. What you see happening in Tijuana today is potentially what could happen in all of Mexico in the next five or 10 years."

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